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Manuela and the Chestnut Sellers of Madrid: Tradition and Life on the Streets of the Capital
On the cold corners of Madrid, from Sol to the Plaza de Ópera, and from Preciados to Embajadores, chestnut sellers like Manuela appear with the first chill of winter, offering more than just roasted chestnuts: they offer an experience that opens a window to tradition and to the heart of Madrid’s street life.
Manuela: An Icon of Madrid Tradition
Manuela, immortalized by Carlos Frontaura [1] in his story published in "La Gran Vía" on January 7, 1894 [2], is a figure who embodies the spirit of Madrid’s chestnut sellers. Described as a "true Madrileña", Manuela stands out not only for her beauty but also for her strength and ability to survive and thrive in the tough conditions of her time.
Engraving of a chestnut seller in San Ildefonso Square
Manuela’s Attire and Appearance
The chestnut sellers, dressed to battle the cold Madrid winter, are wrapped in:
Tartan Dresses and Woolen Shawls: These sturdy dresses and thick shawls are typical of the working women of Madrid. The tartan, with its durable fabric, and the woolen shawls, ideal for warmth, are perfect for those who spend hours outdoors.
Woolen Headscarves: Covering their heads, these scarves provide protection from the cold and are a key part of their attire, combining functionality with the popular style of the era.
Resilient Aprons: Used to protect their clothing from embers and sparks, these aprons are symbols of their hard and constant work.
Hierarchies Among Chestnut Sellers: From Tradition to Bretón de los Herreros’ Text
According to Manuel Bretón de los Herreros [3] in "Los españoles pintados por sí mismos" (1851) [4], chestnut sellers differ not only in their sales techniques but also in their social hierarchy and organization:
La Gran Vía No. 74 - The Chestnut Seller - Drawing by Banda
Sellers Who Boil vs. Sellers Who Roast: While some chestnut sellers boil their chestnuts, considered of lower status due to their nomadic lifestyle and simple goods, others roast the chestnuts, placing them higher in the profession.
Corner, Doorway, and Tavern Sellers: Some chestnut sellers occupy street corners, seen as more prestigious, while others are located in doorways and taverns, each with its own level of status and recognition.
Equipment and Lifestyle: The more established sellers use tools such as tables with drawers, portable stoves, and metal tubes for managing the smoke, reflecting their professionalism and permanence.
Tools of the Trade: The Heart of Their Work
Manuela and the chestnut sellers use several key tools in their daily work:
The Brazier or Stove: This essential roasting tool is where the chestnuts are cooked to perfection, using coal or wood to heat the iron or copper brazier.
Paper Cones: Used to serve the chestnuts, these paper cones are a charming and practical detail of street vending, keeping the chestnuts warm and ready to eat.
Tongs: Essential for handling the hot chestnuts and distributing them without getting burned, tongs are an extension of their skilled hands in daily work.
Chestnut seller of Madrid, engraving by Doré in 1862.
The Sensory Experience: More Than Just Taste
Chestnut sellers offer more than just chestnuts; they provide a full experience that engages the senses:
The Aroma of Roasted Chestnuts: Sometimes chestnuts are moistened with anise, filling the narrow streets of Madrid with a scent that creates an unforgettable atmosphere, attracting customers from all corners of the city.
Shouts of “Hot Chestnuts!”: "Hot! So hot they burn!" is more than a sales call; it’s an invitation to savor Madrid’s traditions and share a moment of warmth in the cold winter.
Manuela and the Chestnut Sellers: Keepers of History and Tradition
Manuela, like many chestnut sellers of her time, is more than just a vendor. She is a keeper of history, a figure who links generations and keeps Madrid’s culture alive. Her figure in literature and on the streets reflects not only daily life but also the indomitable spirit of Madrid’s women, who, with each chestnut sold, weave the story of a city rich in traditions and stories. This representation can also be found in the work of Spanish playwright Ramón de la Cruz (1731-1794), [5] "Las castañeras picadas," [6] which vividly captures the essence and character of these iconic women.
The rich history and cultural significance of chestnut sellers in Madrid are well documented, including the article "The Chestnut Seller: Winter Symbol and Iconic Figure of Madrid’s Nativity Scene" in the magazine Madrid Histórico, which describes their emblematic role in the nativity and their impact on Madrid’s popular culture.
Every detail, from their attire to the tools of their trade, and every aroma that escapes from their braziers, invites all to rediscover and celebrate the roots and heart of Madrid.
Madrid Histórico No. 102 - The Chestnut Seller: Winter Symbol[8]
Bring the Magic of the Chestnut Seller into Your Home
Imagine owning a figure that not only represents Madrid’s rich tradition but also tells stories of resilience and community. The chestnut seller, like Manuela, is more than just a decoration; she is a symbol of life and the indomitable spirit of Madrid.
My chestnut seller sculpture is meticulously designed to capture every detail of her traditional attire and dedication to her craft. From the tartan dress to the iron brazier, each element is crafted with precision to offer you a unique piece that will not only become an indispensable part of your nativity scene but can also beautify any space in your home, serving as a sculpture that evokes the essence of Madrid’s culture.
Don’t miss the opportunity to add this cultural gem to your collection. Buy your Chestnut Seller figure now and bring a piece of Madrid’s history home.
Transform your home into a true homage to your traditions!
This figure is made exclusively to order; I don’t keep stock.
Each piece is personally crafted as an original work of art, so delivery times may vary due to different factors. Once you place your order, I’ll provide you with an exact delivery date.
Every piece is one-of-a-kind: signed, numbered, and comes with a Certificate of Authenticity. It also includes Intellectual Property registration to guarantee its value and originality.
Material
Reproduced with the highest quality UV resin. Then, each figure is carefully hand-painted by myself.
with acrylic paint.
Rembrandt
from the prestigious Royal Talens house, ensuring the highest quality in every detail. Each brushstroke is an expression of my creativity and love for sculptural art, and each figure is a unique and authentic representation of my work, without the intervention of seconds or thirds. Don't settle for crafts, where you don't know who has reproduced or painted it; choose an authentic artwork, created by a sculptor with passion and dedication.
Rembrandt acrylic paint is a high-quality artist's paint that meets the strict requirements of today's artists.
This acrylic paint is made with a high concentration of premium pigments that offer the highest degrees of lightfastness. Over 100 years of lightfastness under museum conditions. Lightfastness has been tested according to ASTM D4303 standard.
Complete Acquisition Value - All Inclusive
All-Inclusive
✔ VAT
✔ Packaging with wooden box.
✔ Shipping.
✔ Transport Insurance.
Height Scale
Scale 1/X
Value
11
1/16
125€
18
1/10
250€
If you're interested in another size or a figure made of terracotta or bronze, please contact me for more information. Also, if you have any questions about the creative process, I'm happy to share more details.
Warning! The values of the figures on the website are subject to change without notice due to their exclusivity and demand.
Order the figure of: “The Chestnut Seller
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Please note that this website is not an online store or a traditional art gallery. My collection of Madrid-style, castizo/Galdósian figures will be sold exclusively at the historic shop 'El Ángel,' which has over 150 years of experience in Sacred Art. To purchase one of these pieces, you can visit the 'El Ángel' shop in person or contact them through WhatsApp or their website. I'm also available if you have any questions and would be happy to help you learn more about the figures and how they're created.
C. de Esparteros, 3, Centro, 28012 Madrid
We invite you to visit the 'El Ángel' store to discover in person the exclusive collection of Madrilenian, traditional, and Galdosian-style figures. You’ll be able to appreciate each artistic detail up close and take home a unique piece full of history. Don’t miss the chance to see them in person!
Bretón de los Herreros, M. (1851). Spaniards Painted by Themselves (Vol. 1, pp. 9-12).
“ ... Returning to the Chestnut Sellers, I observe among them several gradations, or hierarchies, which need to be distinguished, to give to God what is God's and to Caesar what is Caesar's. There are Chestnut Sellers who would feel humiliated if they associated with others of lesser status.
First of all, though all sell chestnuts, some boil them while others roast them. Secondly, some roast chestnuts in one way, and others roast them in another manner. Thirdly, there are Chestnut Sellers on street corners, in doorways, and in taverns.
The boiled Chestnut Sellers... or rather, those who boil chestnuts, are the lowest in rank, considered as the common folk of the trade. This is due to their nomadic and hard life, as they often have no fixed stall, and their goods are less desired. The pot in which they boil the chestnuts serves as a storage and sales counter. The anise used to season them costs little, and the coal they burn is of small value, while the water they use from the nearest fountain costs nothing at all. It is thus that this lower trade is often taken up by young girls or elderly women, whose natural warmth is insufficient to match the heat lost by the chestnuts when exposed to the cold.
The Roasting Chestnut Sellers are of a different status altogether. Some of them have taken up this trade as a decent retirement from a more active career, particularly along the stretch from the former convent of the Fathers of Victory to the one that was the Mothers of Pinto.
This winter, it is likely that the number of sellers from that background will increase, thanks to the recent visits and street checks ordered by the political authorities. Though the legality of such measures may be questioned, for now, we must appreciate the greater ease and safety of crossing certain streets. As we are not political leaders, it is not our place to investigate the lives of others. After all, even the most sinful can become saints, and a Chestnut Seller should be judged for what she is today, not for her past.
A chestnut seller worthy of the title must invest several coins in her equipment: a table with a drawer, a special roasting pot, a portable stove, a tin pipe to channel the smoke, bellows, tongs to manage the fire (which can sometimes be replaced by fingers), a knife to cut each chestnut for easier peeling, a blanket to cover the roasted goods, a basket of coal, a jar of salt, a stool, and sometimes even a shelter. In addition, she must pay the city for a license to sell and possibly rent the spot from a landlord or tavern owner.
Considering all these requirements, it is clear that Chestnut Sellers have much to lose. Their sedentary life, exposure to fire, and the damages from smoke all affect their health and appearance. Despite this, as the saying goes, 'there is always a torn shoe for every foot,' and some Chestnut Sellers, whether married or not, often have a 'chulo' (a lover) who handles the profits in the tavern. However, as the number of chestnut vendors grows, their individual earnings decrease, and now there are male sellers too.
Yes, men selling chestnuts! Such is the selfishness of men, who have taken over even the peaceful and delicate tasks meant for women. We see lazy men working the bellows, instead of engaging in the labor they are meant for... But who knows if some of these unfortunate men are not part of the passive classes?...
The Chestnut Sellers of taverns, however, often live an enviable life. Their stall becomes a social spot frequented by locals and theater extras, where news is shared, and rumors are spread. They exercise a kind of moral authority, and their banter and gossip keep the atmosphere lively. Their presence is a central part of Madrid’s winter life, an example of the connection between food, warmth, and community in the streets.
Manuel Bretón de los Herreros.
“ THE STREET CORNERS OF MADRID
(POPULAR SKETCHES)
I.
The study of Madrid’s street corners is a curious one, and anyone with little to do and no fear of catching a cold can find this study quite entertaining. I recommend it to the unemployed, who are among the most idle of Madrid’s citizens.
Today, let’s get to know Manuela, the chestnut seller, who for the past three years has occupied a corner near San Ildefonso Square from All Saints' Day until the end of March. She is well known throughout the neighborhood, where she has built quite a reputation. As for her beauty, she’s very beautiful; a true Madrileña of pure stock. If she were dressed like the ladies of high society, she could easily pass as a fine lady of great stature. But with her tartan dress, well-worn woolen shawl, and headscarf, Manuela can only appear as what she is: a hardworking woman of the people, always ready to face any challenge, as her admirers say.
Before dedicating herself to the honest trade of roasting chestnuts, Manuela, orphaned by both parents, was the pride of the Embajadores neighborhood and one of the most distinguished students at the Tobacco Factory. She would still be there if she hadn’t been dismissed with a strict warning not to return. However, do not think she was fired for anything shameful. She left simply because she found out that a colleague was flirting with a man she was infatuated with at the time. And as it often happens in matters of the heart, even the strongest woman, and Manuela was very strong, must surrender when her time comes.
One afternoon, Manuela politely asked her colleague if she wasn’t aware that the whole neighborhood knew this man was committed to her. The other woman responded with mocking words, which a lady like Manuela could not tolerate without her blood boiling. Hearing the response, Manuela grabbed the other woman by the hair and proceeded to land a flurry of punches and slaps, throwing her to the ground and giving her a sound beating right in the middle of the workshop, a legendary fight in that crowded neighborhood. When the factory overseers, the manager, and even the police arrived, Manuela dealt them all blows, proving her unmatched bravery, beating not only her hated rival but also three or four bearded men.
For this, as she likes to tell with pride, she spent three weeks in the women’s jail and lost fifteen silver coins in legal fees, a bitter expense. But the result was that her factory rival never dared to look at the man again, and this lucky man, out of sheer fear, fled overnight to Havana, curing Manuela of love. Surely, Manuela deserved better than such a cowardly man who ran just because his lady had a strong hand, capable of slapping a woman and striking down the toughest man who dared stand in her way.
Since then, Manuela looks at both men and women with sovereign disdain. She doesn’t mince words, and if you want to know her opinion on people, just ask her, for she speaks frankly and holds nothing back.
— “How many? Fresh and hot! How many?”
— “Hey! Girls! Here come the fresh hot ones!”
— “Hot! Hot enough to burn! The hot ones!”
These are the cries with which she repeatedly calls out to the public, offering her delicious wares. She has many loyal customers and no shortage of suitors, but with exemplary virtue, she rejects all romantic proposals.
— “I’m so over love!” she exclaims with a touch of bitter irony, adding to further emphasize her state of mind regarding love, “No man will fool me! Men? Ugh! What a disgusting lot!”
When April arrives, Manuela packs away her chestnut-roasting tools and switches to selling oranges and lemons, and later in the season, she moves on to selling Aranjuez asparagus, roasted pine nuts, sweet acorns, and other quick-selling products.
In the time she’s been in the Maravillas neighborhood, she’s had several run-ins, always emerging victorious but often ending up before the municipal court and receiving fines. She says she’ll soon have to leave the neighborhood. Why? Because Mr. Remigio, the shoeshine man—known as one of the top bootblacks in the kingdom—keeps spreading rumors about whether she had affairs with the man who fled to Havana or with others. And since she’s a woman of great moral conduct, she won’t let even the morning star insult her honor.
One day, we’ll surely read in the papers that Mr. Remigio, the shoeshine man, has had his head bashed in by a chestnut seller, because when Manuela promises to beat someone, you can bet she’ll make good on her word, even if the sun stops shining. ”
with acrylic paint.
Rembrandt
from the prestigious Royal Talens house, ensuring the highest quality in every detail. Each brushstroke is an expression of my creativity and love for sculptural art, and each figure is a unique and authentic representation of my work, without the intervention of seconds or thirds. Don't settle for crafts, where you don't know who has reproduced or painted it; choose an authentic artwork, created by a sculptor with passion and dedication. 
